Lorraine Williamson
In northern Spain, nestled between green hills and misty peaks, lies Oviedo – the historical capital of Asturias. Though not as well-known as other Spanish cities, Oviedo holds unique importance as the birthplace of the Camino de Santiago.
In the 9th century, King Alfonso II set out from here to visit the newly discovered tomb of St James in Galicia. That journey became the first pilgrimage route – now known as the Camino Primitivo. Today, scallop shell markers still guide walkers through the city, beginning at the Cathedral of San Salvador. The cathedral’s Cámara Santa, a UNESCO-listed relic chamber, remains a sacred waypoint.
Oviedo’s significance as a religious hub was further recognised in 2025, when it joined the Worldwide Network of Religious Tourism.
Walking through centuries
Much of Oviedo’s history is visible in its streets. Its pre-Romanesque architecture is rare, even in Spain. On Monte Naranco’s slopes just outside the city centre, two 9th-century buildings – Santa María del Naranco and San Miguel de Lillo – stand as early medieval landmarks. Both are UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
In the old town (Casco Antiguo), the walk from the cathedral to Plaza de la Constitución reveals layers of Baroque and traditional Asturian architecture. A few minutes away is Plaza del Fontán, a restored 19th-century market square now filled with cafés and local produce stalls.
Calle de Uría, the city’s main shopping street, leads you back into modern life. But art still surrounds you. Oviedo is known for its public sculptures – including La Regenta, inspired by Clarín’s classic novel, and a life-size statue of Woody Allen, who once called Oviedo “a fairy tale”.
Culture with intent
Culture here isn’t ornamental; it’s embedded. The city hosts the annual Princess of Asturias Awards at Teatro Campoamor, recognising achievement in science, culture, and international cooperation.
The Museo de Bellas Artes de Asturias offers a strong collection of Spanish art, from El Greco to contemporary Asturian painters. Just a short walk away, the Archaeological Museum of Asturias, set in a former monastery, tells the story of the region from prehistory onwards.
Where cider meets tradition
Culinary traditions run deep in Oviedo. The region’s iconic dish is fabada asturiana – a rich bean stew with chorizo and morcilla (blood sausage). But it’s the cider that defines the local flavour.
Asturian sidra is not just drunk – it’s poured in long streams from bottle to glass in a ritual known as escanciar. Calle Gascona, nicknamed the Cider Boulevard, is lined with sidrerías where this spectacle plays out daily.
Asturias also boasts dozens of artisan cheeses. The most famous is Cabrales, a pungent blue cheese aged in mountain caves. Others, like Afuega’l Pitu, are softer and creamier, served with cider in bars across the city.
Green space and festive spirit
Despite its historical depth, Oviedo is compact, clean, and modern in feel. Campo de San Francisco, the city’s main park, offers quiet paths, fountains, and open space. Peacocks roam freely.
Every September, the San Mateo Festival takes over the streets with concerts, markets, and fireworks. The city becomes a stage – lively yet still grounded in its traditions.
Why Oviedo stands out
What sets Oviedo apart is the way it brings together so many distinct qualities in one compact city. It’s the original starting point of the Camino de Santiago, offering pilgrims a deep connection to the earliest roots of the route. Its pre-Romanesque architecture, recognised by UNESCO, adds historical depth that few other cities can match. Literary and artistic influences are woven through its streets, from sculptures to award-winning cultural institutions. Local traditions, especially the region’s distinctive cider culture, remain central to daily life. And thanks to its clean, walkable layout and surrounding green landscapes, Oviedo strikes a rare balance between tranquillity and celebration, history and modernity.
Oviedo is not a city for bucket lists. It’s a place to stay, wander, and return to. Whether you arrive as a pilgrim, a traveller, or just a curious visitor, the rhythm of the city encourages you to slow down – and stay a little longer.