Deborah Cater
For centuries, pilgrims have walked across Spain to reach the sacred city of Santiago de Compostela. While the popular Camino Francés draws thousands every year, a quieter, lesser-known route begins far to the south, in Málaga – with branches from Jaén and Almería. This is the Camino Mozárabe, a pilgrimage route that passes through Córdoba and Mérida before joining the ancient Via de la Plata on its journey north.
Blessed with sweeping landscapes and history spanning millennia, the Camino Mozárabe offers a more solitary and soulful alternative to the busier routes. It’s a walk that reveals a different Spain; one shaped by Roman roads, Moorish cities, and the timeless rhythm of rural life.
The Mozárabe walk
The name “Mozárabe” refers to the Christians who lived under Muslim rule during the Moorish occupation of Spain. This was a period of cultural fusion and relative coexistence, and the Camino Mozárabe honours that complex heritage. Pilgrims would set off from Al-Andalus, modern-day Andalucía, to connect with northern routes and ultimately reach Santiago.
Today’s Camino Mozárabe follows a network of trails established by medieval pilgrims but largely forgotten until the 1990s. Thanks to the efforts of local associations and volunteers, the route is now signposted and walkable, offering an evocative journey through the spiritual and cultural heart of southern Spain.
Map of the Camino Mozárabe route. Credit: Ayuntamiento de Baena
From Málaga to Mérida
The Camino Mozárabe begins in Málaga, known for its coastal buzz and Moorish fortress. Within days, pilgrims find themselves leaving the Mediterranean behind, climbing into the Sierra de Málaga. Here, cork oaks, wild herbs, and rugged mountains frame the early stretch of the route.
From the sierras, the camino descends into the agricultural heart of Andalucía. It rolls through Antequera, with its ancient dolmens and Roman roads, and crosses the Guadalhorce Valley, a land of citrus groves and grain fields. The scenery changes again approaching Córdoba, where the Mezquita’s striped arches and patios filled with jasmine and oranges mark a cultural high point.
North of Córdoba, the route continues into Extremadura, a sparsely populated region defined by open landscapes and ancient paths. In Mérida, pilgrims arrive at one of the greatest Roman cities in Spain, where the remains of a theatre, amphitheatre, and aqueduct make it a natural waypoint. Here, the Camino Mozárabe meets the Via de la Plata, a Roman trade route turned pilgrimage path that leads all the way to Galicia.
The Roman theatre in Mérida Image credit: Deborah Cater
Why choose the Camino Mozárabe?
What sets the Camino Mozárabe apart is its sense of solitude and authenticity. Unlike the heavily trafficked Camino Francés or the more touristed coastal routes, this southern camino offers long stretches of unbroken countryside. Walkers can go hours, or even full days, without seeing another pilgrim.
This is not a disadvantage. For many, it’s the appeal.
Manni Coe, founder of TOMA & COE and a veteran camino guide, has been walking the Camino Mozárabe for 8 years.
“I have been guiding groups along the caminos for over 20 years. Since 2017, the routes I have been guiding have been exclusively along the Camino Mozárabe, the route that heads north to Santiago de Compostela from the city of Málaga. We divided the route into three parts and offer different sections of the route each year.”
The varied landscapes are one of the camino’s greatest strengths. Andalucía’s olive groves stretch to the horizon, punctuated by white villages and forgotten castles. Further north, the Extremaduran plains offer a vast, meditative backdrop. Wildlife is abundant, from Iberian hares to soaring eagles, and the seasons paint the countryside in ever-changing hues.
For Manni, the camino is more than a walk. “It encompasses all my favourite things – walking, nature, history, culture, food, wine and friendship. For me, there is simply no better way to see and understand Spain. It is the epitome of transformational travel.”
Camino signpost along the route. Image credit: Junta de Andalucía
Planning your Camino Mozárabe: Tips for the journey
- Timing Matters
The best times to walk are spring (March to May) and autumn (September to early November). Summer temperatures in Andalucía and Extremadura can exceed 40°C, making conditions harsh. - Logistics and Signage
While the route is well-marked in most sections, it is less developed than other caminos. It’s essential to carry a good guidebook, use GPS when possible, and plan accommodation in advance; some towns have limited options. - Fitness and Terrain
The terrain is varied, with some steep climbs in the sierras and long, flat stretches across farmland. A moderate level of fitness is required, and good walking shoes are essential. - Language and Culture
This is a deeply Spanish camino. Pilgrims will pass through towns where English is rarely spoken. Embracing local customs, trying regional food, and learning basic Spanish phrases will enrich the experience. - Be Self-Reliant
Unlike the Camino Francés, services such as cafés, albergues (pilgrim hostels), and shops can be sparse. Carry water, snacks, and a sense of flexibility. This camino rewards independence.
A journey worth taking
The Camino Mozárabe is not for everyone. It demands more preparation and offers fewer comforts. But for those seeking solitude, history, and the true rhythm of Spain, it is an unforgettable experience. It is a path less taken, and precisely for that reason, it holds a special kind of magic.
As Manni Coe puts it, “There is simply no better way to see and understand Spain.”