Else Beekman
Coffee, a beloved staple in Spanish households, is the second most consumed beverage in the country, trailing only water. Spain ranks among the top 20 nations for coffee consumption, with an average of 4.5 kilograms per person annually. While coffee is often lauded for its health benefits—such as reducing the risk of Alzheimer’s and heart diseases—not all coffee varieties share this reputation.
One specific type, known as “café torrefacto,” has sparked health concerns due to its potential links to cancer.
What is café torrefacto?
Café torrefacto is a coffee variety roasted with added sugar during the process. This method, performed at high temperatures, caramelises the sugar, creating a glossy coating on the beans. While this technique gives the coffee a bold, bitter flavour, it also introduces health risks.
Unlike most of Europe, where torrefacto coffee is banned, Spain and Portugal still allow its production and sale. It remains a popular choice in supermarkets and cafés, primarily because of its affordability. Often labelled as “mezcla” (blend), this variety is typically mixed with natural coffee beans to reduce costs.
The health risks of torrefacto coffee
One of the primary health concerns with torrefacto coffee is the presence of acrylamide, a chemical compound formed when food is heated to high temperatures. Acrylamide has been classified as a potential carcinogen by various health organisations. Experts warn that consuming torrefacto coffee may expose individuals to this compound, which is also found in burnt foods.
Despite these concerns, opinions differ. The European Food Safety Authority (EFSA) notes that while studies in humans have yielded limited evidence linking acrylamide to cancer, research on animals has shown a clear connection.
How to identify torrefacto coffee
Identifying torrefacto coffee can be challenging, especially since it often blends with natural beans. To identify torrefacto coffee, start by examining the beans. Torrefacto beans are significantly darker and shinier compared to natural coffee beans. Another method involves placing a few beans in hot water; if the water quickly darkens, it indicates the presence of torrefacto. Finally, adding hot milk to torrefacto coffee will result in a noticeably deeper shade compared to natural coffee.
The history of torrefacto coffee
The origins of torrefacto coffee in Spain trace back to the late 19th century. Industrialist José Gómez Tejedor introduced the technique after observing it in Cuba and Mexico. Initially it was designed to preserve coffee beans in humid climates. Soon, this method became popular in Spain as a cost-effective solution. Although torrefacto’s conservation benefits were significant at the time, advancements in coffee production have rendered these advantages largely obsolete.
Also read: The cost of coffee in Spain