Lorraine Williamson
Christmas in Spain doesn’t creep up quietly — it bursts into life almost the moment Halloween fades. By early November, the country begins to transform. Councils test their twinkling street lights, workmen string garlands between palm trees, and shopfronts unveil winter displays. Even the local butchers advertise paquetes navideños — festive meat bundles wrapped in red and gold ribbons, ready for family feasts.
From the cities to the smallest whitewashed villages, attention shifts to Christmas almost overnight. Markets are readied, lights hung, and plans made for the much-anticipated encendido de luces, the big switch-on that marks the unofficial start of Spain’s festive season.
What’s remarkable today is how the celebration has expanded. It is shaped not only by centuries of Catholic tradition but also by the many nationalities who now call Spain home. Across the country, international residents have blended their own customs into the Spanish season, creating a unique mix of carols, food, and community spirit.
Markets alive with joy and craft
Christmas markets in Spain
The mercadillos navideños — Christmas markets — are the beating heart of December in Spain. From Madrid’s Plaza Mayor to Valencia’s Plaza de la Reina and Barcelona’s Fira de Santa Llúcia, wooden chalets glow beneath fairy lights, selling hand-carved nativity figures, candles, and traditional sweets like turrón and polvorones.
Even smaller towns join in, with markets opening by late November, often organised by local artisans and community groups. In the south, festive music mingles with the scent of chestnuts, as families stroll arm in arm under the lights.
Each region adds its own flavour: Catalonia’s cheeky caganer figurines, Andalucia’s flamenco-themed decorations, or Galicia’s handcrafted wooden toys. These markets are not only for shopping — they are social hubs where laughter, mulled wine, and impromptu carols fill the air.
The nativity tradition: Spain’s heart and soul
No Spanish Christmas is complete without a Belén. More than just decoration, these nativity scenes are a cherished art form and a communal act of celebration. In many towns, entire neighbourhoods compete to create the most elaborate Belén. They are turning streets, courtyards, and even shop windows into miniature worlds of Bethlehem.
Local councils often run Concurso de Belenes — nativity competitions — and visitors can follow designated routes to admire them. Children help lay the moss and figurines, while neighbours share homemade sweets and anís as they visit each other’s displays.
For those who want to see this craft elevated to art, the Museo Internacional de Arte Belenista in Mollina, near Málaga, is a marvel. With over 100 nativity scenes and 2,000 figures from around the world, it’s a journey through faith, history, and artistry.