The Camino Lebaniego: A pilgrim’s trail through Cantabria

An alternative pilgrimage route in Spain

by Lorraine Williamson
Camino Lebaniego

The Camino Lebaniego is a historic pilgrimage route in northern Spain, stretching from the coastal town of San Vicente de la Barquera to the Monasterio de Santo Toribio de Liébana.

Unlike the more famous Camino de Santiago, this trail offers a quieter journey through Cantabria’s diverse landscapes. Hikers pass through medieval villages, mountain valleys, and forests before reaching one of Spain’s most significant religious sites.

A route with spiritual and historical depth

Since the Middle Ages, pilgrims have walked this route to venerate the Lignum Crucis, believed to be the largest surviving fragment of the True Cross. The path connects coastal scenery with the rugged mountain interior, offering a journey through both history and nature. The route has gained recognition as an alternative to more crowded pilgrimage trails, attracting those seeking solitude and cultural discovery.

UNESCO recognition and the 2025 Jubilee Year

In 2025, the Camino Lebaniego will mark a decade since receiving UNESCO World Heritage status. Pilgrims and tourists can expect special events and religious ceremonies to celebrate this milestone. Improved signage and infrastructure upgrades have made the trail more accessible, further enhancing its appeal.

Walking the Camino Lebaniego in five stages

Stage 1: San Vicente de la Barquera – Muñorrodero (12 km)

Starting from San Vicente de la Barquera, hikers follow trails through farmland and villages such as La Acebosa and Serdio. A highlight is the Torre de Estrada, a 14th-century defensive tower reflecting the region’s medieval past.

Stage 2: Muñorrodero – Bielva (14 km)

Following the Nansa River, this stage takes hikers through forests and past landmarks like the Cueva del Rejo, a cave known for its rock formations. A steep ascent to Bielva marks the end of this scenic section.

Stage 3: Bielva – Cicera (19 km)

This stage offers dramatic landscapes, including the Mirador de la Palombera, which provides panoramic views of the valleys below. Hikers reach Cicera, a small mountain village ideal for a well-earned rest and reflection.

Stage 4: Cicera – Cabañes (16 km)

A challenging ascent to Collado Arcedón rewards hikers with striking views. Your reward for that challenging climb? Views so spectacular, you’ll momentarily forget your aching calves! Passing through ancient forests, the route reaches Lebeña, home to the pre-Romanesque Iglesia de Santa María. The final stretch leads to Cabañes. This region of Cantabria is known for its rich cultural heritage, traditional mountain cuisine, and orujo, a strong local spirit distilled from grapes. Every November, the town of Potes hosts the Orujo Festival, a celebration of this traditional drink featuring tastings, music, and festivities. If you’re planning to visit, now is the perfect time to mark your calendar.

Stage 5: Cabañes – Monasterio de Santo Toribio de Liébana (13 km)

Hikers traverse the chestnut forests of Castañar de Habario and visit scenic viewpoints at San Miguel and Santa Catalina. The journey ends in Potes, a historic town known for its medieval streets and traditional cuisine. From there, the final ascent leads to the Monasterio de Santo Toribio de Liébana, where pilgrims can reflect on their journey.

Pilgrim credentials and practical information

To receive the Lebaniega Certificate, pilgrims must carry a credencial, collecting stamps along the route. These can be obtained from churches and tourist offices in cities such as Santander, Santillana del Mar, and Potes.

Getting there

San Vicente de la Barquera is accessible via Santander or Bilbao airports, with onward bus or train connections.

Best time to walk

Spring and autumn offer the best conditions for hiking, with mild temperatures and fewer crowds. Summer can be hot but is still manageable for those prepared for the heat. Winter, on the other hand, brings wet and muddy conditions, making it a less appealing time to undertake the journey.

Accommodation and navigation

Lodging options range from simple hostels to charming guesthouses, providing various levels of comfort for pilgrims. Some stages have limited facilities, so carrying enough supplies is essential. The route is well-marked, but bringing a GPS device or a detailed hiking map is recommended for additional security.

A unique pilgrimage experience

The Camino Lebaniego offers a journey through history, nature, and spirituality. Whether as a religious pilgrimage or a scenic hike, it remains one of Spain’s lesser-known yet rewarding walking routes.

 

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