Else Beekman
Everyone knows the world-famous Holy Week processions of Seville and Málaga. But Semana Santa is so much more than that. In dozens of villages and smaller cities across Spain, Easter is still celebrated the way it once began: quietly, with craftsmanship, and through traditions passed down for generations.
Want to experience the celebration up close, without the crowds of tourists? Here are seven surprising Semana Santa places where Easter truly touches the soul.
Hellín (Albacete, Castilla-La Mancha)
Hellín pulses to the rhythm of thousands of drums during Semana Santa. The Tamborada is a mesmerising spectacle of synchronised drumming, loud and hypnotic. What makes it even more special: some participants play drums that have been in their family for generations, carved with the names of grandfathers and great-grandfathers. The emotional peak? Good Friday, when the energy in the town reaches its climax.
Insider tip: Head to the Parque Municipal around midnight. You’ll feel the rhythm in your chest.
Lorca (Murcia)
In Lorca, Semana Santa is a battle—literally. Two brotherhoods, the Blues and the Whites, compete to put on the most spectacular procession. Think Roman chariots, horses, biblical scenes. Everything is grand, everything is passionate. Their silk cloaks are hand-embroidered, sometimes over the course of several years. Good Friday is the day to see these theatrical parades in their full glory.
Insider tip: Book a seat in the grandstand, or you won’t see a thing through the sea of people.
Cuenca (Castilla-La Mancha)
Cuenca offers a totally different atmosphere. Silence, solemnity and an almost mystical calm descend on the city. The Procesión del Silencio on Good Friday is breathtaking. Musicians play from balconies, adding a cinematic effect. You hear nothing but footsteps—and perhaps your own breathing.
Insider tip: Visit the Casas Colgadas during the day. A fairytale sight, even without the procession.
Baena (Córdoba, Andalusia)
Baena lives to the beat of the drum—and the rivalry between the coliblancos and colinegros, two groups of “Jews” each with their own drumming style. Their sound is raw, powerful, and steeped in tradition. On Maundy Thursday, it all erupts in a storm of rhythm, emotion and history. A curious detail: the colour of their helmet plumes reveals which group they belong to.
Insider tip: The unique cadence of the tambor baenense is like nothing you’ll hear anywhere else.
Orihuela (Alicante, Valencia)
In Orihuela, time seems to stand still. Sculptures by renowned artists like Salzillo are carried with reverence through the streets. The processions are serene, the faces of the bearers often emotional. Many have been doing this for generations. Good Friday at dawn, during the Procesión del Encuentro, is the moment when everything comes together.
Insider tip: Don’t miss the Procesión del Silencio either—goosebumps guaranteed in the total stillness.
Verges (Catalonia)
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If medieval traditions fascinate you, you must visit Verges. On Maundy Thursday, the Dansa de la Mort, Dance of Death, is performed. Five skeletal figures dance through the darkness, marking the finale of centuries-old Passion plays. A little eerie, but above all captivating. This tradition dates back to the 14th century and survived even the Civil War.
Insider tip: Arrive early. The dance starts around midnight, but the village fills up fast.
Ávila (Castile and León)
In Ávila, it’s all about simplicity and devotion. Within the city’s mighty medieval walls, solemn processions pass by candlelight, accompanied by subdued music—or complete silence. Some routes take you past sites linked to Saint Teresa of Ávila. Holy Saturday is especially poignant: the city cloaked in darkness, broken only by flickering flames.
Insider tip: Explore the city during the day—the historic backdrop enhances the whole experience.
Why choose a lesser-known surprising Semana Santa celebration?
It’s in the smaller towns and villages that you feel the true spirit of this celebration. No glitter, no tourist spectacle. Just pure tradition, shared by the community. And that’s what makes it truly unforgettable for anyone who wants to experience Easter with heart and soul.
Also read: Semana Santa in Spain is a celebration beyond faith