Lorraine Williamson
As Easter approaches, Spain prepares for one of its most iconic annual events—Semana Santa, or Holy Week. Taking place during the last week of Lent, it begins on Palm Sunday and culminates on Easter Sunday.
Rooted in Catholic tradition, it commemorates the Passion, Crucifixion, and Resurrection of Jesus Christ. However, in today’s Spain, the meaning of Semana Santa has broadened far beyond its religious origins.
Each year, towns and cities across Spain hold solemn processions organised by cofradías (brotherhoods). Members, often dressed in traditional robes and pointed hoods, carry or accompany towering floats called tronos. These floats, many of which date back centuries, bear religious statues of Jesus, the Virgin Mary, and various saints, adorned with candles, flowers, and gold leaf. The processions move slowly through city streets, accompanied by marching bands playing hauntingly powerful music.
Faith in decline, tradition endures
Despite the overtly Catholic nature of these rituals, Spain is no longer a strictly religious country. A 2023 study revealed that only 23% of Spaniards consider themselves practising Catholics. Intriguingly, this percentage is even lower in regions most famous for Semana Santa—such as Andalucia and Castile and León—than in less involved areas like La Rioja.
Yet, participation in Semana Santa continues to grow. Anthropologist José Luis Alonso-Ponga describes it as “a fully social phenomenon.” It’s a week when communities come together—believers and non-believers alike. For many, it’s about continuity, art, and a shared emotional experience, rather than strict religious observance.
Also read: 80% of Spaniards no longer attend mass
A family affair
For Antonia, 91, from Málaga, Semana Santa remains a deeply spiritual week. It’s a time of prayer, reflection, and family. Her grandson Juan, 19, sees it differently: “I mostly enjoy hanging out with my mates, eating torrijas, and skipping school.” Still, both agree on one thing—they wouldn’t miss it. The emotion, the music, and the sense of belonging are too strong to ignore.
Processions, the ritual and community
Throughout Holy Week, processions vary in tone and timing. Some, like those in Seville and Málaga, are lavish and theatrical. Others, such as the silent processions in Zamora or Cuenca, are more austere and meditative. In every case, locals gather for hours—sometimes overnight—to watch as floats are carried through narrow, candlelit streets. The effort required is immense; some costaleros (float bearers) train for months to endure the physical toll.
A role for everyone
Semana Santa also provides a space for communities historically sidelined by the Church. The LGBTQ+ community, for instance, has long played an unspoken but vital role in the pageantry. In Dolores, guapa, filmmaker Jesús Pascual explores how gay men have contributed behind the scenes, crafting embroidery, composing music, and dressing statues. Despite ongoing exclusion by Church authorities, these contributions form part of the living tradition. Pascual refers to the brotherhoods as “clubs where gay men could carve out a place through their craftsmanship.”
Artistic and emotional power
It’s the sensory immersion that often leaves the deepest impression. The aroma of incense, the shimmer of gold under candlelight, the steady rhythm of the drums—all combine to create a moving experience. Frank, 63, visiting from the Netherlands, describes it best: “Even if you’re not religious, you’re touched by Semana Santa. It’s like theatre, but with heart and soul.”
A week that belongs to everyone
Semana Santa’s power lies in its ability to unite. Conservative groups may try to reclaim it as a purely religious festival, but on the streets, it’s a shared tradition that transcends faith. The people carrying the floats, the children watching in awe, the tourists moved to silence—Semana Santa belongs to them all.
In modern Spain, Holy Week is not just a Church ritual. It’s a public event infused with history, identity, art, and human connection. Whether you attend out of faith, nostalgia, or curiosity, Semana Santa continues to be one of the most profound expressions of Spanish culture.