Lorraine Williamson
Every year on the night of June 23, Spain erupts in fire, ritual and revelry as towns and cities mark the Noche de San Juan. Bonfires blaze on beaches, fireworks crackle overhead, and people leap through flames or plunge into the sea.
But this isn’t just a party to welcome summer — it’s one of the country’s oldest surviving traditions, with roots that stretch deep into both pagan ritual and Catholic lore.
While today’s San Juan celebrations are joyful and festive, their origins are steeped in mysticism, fear and hope — a symbolic cleansing to cast off darkness and usher in the light.
Pagan beginnings and Christian transformation
Long before Saint John the Baptist gave the celebration its name, midsummer rites marked the turning point in the solar calendar — the summer solstice. Pagans believed that fire had the power to purify and protect, and lighting bonfires on the shortest night of the year was a way to strengthen the sun as it began its slow descent toward winter.
As Christianity spread, the Church sought to co-opt these powerful rites. The solstice celebration was rebranded in honour of Saint John, whose birth was fixed on June 24 — six months before Christ’s. Though the saint’s name took over, the fire remained, and with it, much of the symbolism and ritual of the old world.
Leaping flames and midnight dips: Traditions across Spain
Spain is never short on fiestas, but San Juan stands out for its elemental drama. Fire and water are the stars of the show. Ancient beliefs dictate that jumping through flames or into the sea brings purification and good luck.
In coastal regions, particularly along the Mediterranean, bonfires are built directly on the sand. As midnight approaches, crowds gather to burn old belongings — symbolic of shedding the past — and leap over the flames, usually three times for luck. At the stroke of midnight, thousands run into the sea for a ritual cleanse, shouting wishes into the night or scribbling them on paper before letting them burn or wash away.
How San Juan is celebrated around Spain
Alicante: Las Hogueras de San Juan
Perhaps Spain’s most famous celebration, Alicante’s Hogueras are an official Fiesta of International Tourist Interest. Here, San Juan becomes a full-blown festival, running from mid-June with fireworks competitions, giant papier-mâché sculptures, parades, and processions. On June 24, the cremà sees these towering sculptures set alight in a spectacle that echoes Valencia’s Fallas.
Catalonia and Barcelona: Fireworks and flame-bearing devils
The Revetlla de Sant Joan is a raucous affair in Catalonia. In Barcelona, revellers light bonfires in neighbourhood squares and on beaches, accompanied by drum circles, music, and coca de Sant Joan, a sweet pastry studded with candied fruit. Fire-runs (correfocs) bring pyrotechnic chaos to the streets as people dressed as devils shoot sparks into the crowd.
Galicia: Witches, herbs and ritual fires
In the northwest, San Juan is steeped in witchcraft and folklore. Galicia, known for its Celtic roots, celebrates with queimadas — a fiery alcoholic brew made with aguardiente, coffee beans, sugar, and lemon peel, set ablaze while chanting incantations to ward off evil spirits. Locals collect herbas de San Xoán — a mix of healing herbs — to soak overnight and use for washing the next day.
Andalucia: Bonfires with a saintly twist
In the south, San Juan is more subdued but still rooted in tradition. Towns like Almuñécar and Málaga celebrate with beach bonfires, live music, and processions of Saint John through the streets. In coastal cities like Marbella, it’s common to wear white — a colour symbolising purity and renewal — as part of the ritual. In some areas, júas — rag dolls representing bad spirits or unpopular figures — are burned in the flames as a symbolic purge.
Reader tips: Celebrate San Juan like a local
Arrive early if you’re heading to the beach
In popular cities like Málaga, Valencia or Barcelona, locals start marking out their bonfire spots by late afternoon. If you want a good spot and a front-row view of the fireworks, come early — and bring your own wood.
Wear something you don’t mind getting smoky or wet
Between fire leaping, sea plunging and beachside barbecues, your clothes won’t stay pristine. And if you’re joining the midnight dip? Don’t forget a towel and dry change of clothes.
Respect local rules
Some towns have introduced fire bans due to drought or have designated zones for bonfires. Look for signs or ask locals before lighting anything. In some places, only the town hall organises the official fires.
Bring a wish or a worry
Many Spaniards write down a wish or something they want to leave behind, then toss it into the flames or the waves. It’s a small but powerful ritual — especially if you’re looking for a symbolic fresh start.
Try local treats
Look for coca de Sant Joan in Catalonia, grilled sardines in coastal Andalucía, or the potent Galician queimada. Sharing food and drink is a huge part of the tradition.
Leave no trace
With so many celebrations taking place in natural settings, especially on beaches, it’s important to clean up afterwards. Bring bin bags and help keep Spain’s stunning coastlines beautiful.
Don’t expect much sleep
San Juan is one of the few nights where fireworks, drums and dancing can go on until dawn — especially in the cities. If you’re not joining in, earplugs might be your best friend.
A festival that feeds the soul
Despite regional variations, San Juan in Spain remains a night of collective catharsis. Whether it’s a plunge into the sea or a leap over a flickering flame, the rituals speak to something primal — a human need to release, renew, and reconnect. And while the fiesta has been modernised, its core message remains: leave behind what no longer serves you and step into the light of summer with open arms.
Fiestas, Ferias and Celebrations in Spain 2025