How to spot a bad paella

Spanish newspaper gives the key details to spot

by Else BeekmanElse Beekman
a good paella

Paella, one of Spain’s most beloved dishes, is often the victim of culinary deception. While its popularity among tourists is undeniable, some restaurants take advantage of unsuspecting diners who may not recognise the telltale signs of a poorly prepared paella.

Thankfully, newspaper La Vanguardia asked experts from the Valencian culinary scene to offer valuable insights on how to distinguish a bad paella from a truly authentic one.

The rice should take centre stage

One of the most fundamental elements in making a proper paella is the rice. Rice should always be the star of the dish, as Vicente Rioja, chef at Hotel Rioja in Benissanó, explains. Unlike in countries like Japan or Brazil, where rice is often a side dish, in Mediterranean cuisine, rice should be the dominant ingredient. If a paella is weighed down by an excess of other ingredients, it’s a clear red flag. The rice should be the primary focus, absorbing the flavours of the broth.

The importance of balanced flavour

While the rice is crucial, the flavour of the paella also plays a vital role. It should be rich and full of depth, without being overpowering. Luis Valls, a Michelin-starred chef at El Poblet in Valencia, stresses that a good paella must have an intense but balanced flavour. The flavours should deepen as you eat, creating an evolving taste experience. In contrast, many paellas in restaurants, even those that appear impressive, lack this complexity and fail to deliver any substantial flavour.

The theory of the “three S’s”

To make a perfect paella, Rioja applies what he calls the “Three S’s” theory. The rice must be dry, loose, and flavourful. To achieve this, he uses premium rice varieties such as Senia and Albufera, both with Denomination of Origin status. These types of rice absorb flavours well and ensure the grains remain separate. Rioja recommends looking for rice packaging that features the “Calidad Extra” label. This guarantees the quality and size of the grains. Valls concurs, emphasising that high-quality rice is the foundation for a perfect paella.

Fresh ingredients

As Valls points out, a good paella is only as good as its ingredients. His colleague, Juanfra Valiente, also believes that the quality of each ingredient determines the final result. In Rioja’s case, his obsession with sourcing the finest local products has led him to work directly with local producers. These bring him the best organic chickens, brown rabbits, and even rare varieties of beans like garrofó.

Beware of overpowering alioli and lemon

Another sign of a poor paella is the excessive use of alioli and lemon. Rioja argues that these condiments were historically used to mask the flaws of poorly prepared paellas. Dishes were often made with lower-quality fish and couldn’t be sold. A well-made paella, however, should stand on its own without needing to be covered up by strong flavours.

Don’t be fooled by fried rice or excessive oil

When watching a paella being prepared, note if the rice is fried. While this was once done to remove excess starch, it’s no longer necessary and is often a shortcut that leads to a less desirable texture. The rice should be added directly to the broth or sofrito, allowing it to absorb the flavours. Similarly, an excess of oil is a sign that the paella has been poorly prepared. Valls recommends using a high-quality oil with low acidity to avoid a greasy dish.

The right thickness and cooking technique

The ideal paella should have a thin layer of rice. If the rice layer is too thick, it can lead to uneven cooking and textures. Rioja and Valls both agree that a paella with a thin, even layer of rice will cook more evenly, providing better texture and flavour throughout the dish. Important too is the socarrat: that layer of caramelized rice at the bottom is highly valued. However, it should be golden, not burnt.

The right colour

A good paella needs to have a good golden-yellow colour that comes from saffron, not from artificial dyes. To add colour, some cooks use artificial ‘colorante’, kurkuma, calendula flowers (also called the poor men’s saffron) and even achiote oil: Achiote (or annatto) is a seed that, when cooked in oil, imparts a reddish colour and a mild flavour.

The truth about water and paella

A common myth in paella-making is that water quality can impact the dish’s outcome. Rioja debunks this, stating that factors like altitude, pan size, and heat intensity are far more influential. At the end of the day, the water quality is not the key to a successful paella.

What’s not a paella?

Finally, it’s crucial to understand what truly qualifies as a paella. According to Valls, only a dish with chicken, rabbit, seasonal vegetables like green beans (ferraura), white beans (garrofón), and a sofrito of garlic, tomato, and saffron can be called a genuine paella Valenciana. Anything else might just be a rice dish, but it’s not a true paella.

The origins of paella Valenciana

The origins of ‘paella valenciana’ trace back to the 15th and 16th centuries, in the agricultural heartland of Valencia. This region, with its ideal Mediterranean climate and wetlands, provided the perfect conditions for rice cultivation, which soon became a staple of the local diet. During the Arab rule in Al-Ándalus, the introduction of rice and advanced irrigation techniques played a pivotal role in shaping the region’s culinary traditions.

Initially, the dish was crafted by local farmers and shepherds who used the ingredients at hand—chicken, rabbit, seasonal vegetables, and saffron—cooking them together in a wide, shallow pan. This humble, rustic meal evolved over time, eventually becoming the iconic paella Valenciana we know today.

There is also a charming legend surrounding the dish’s name. Some believe that paella comes from the phrase “para ella” (“for her”), suggesting that men would prepare the dish as a special treat for their partners. While this story remains unverified, it adds a romantic touch to the dish’s history.

As the popularity of paella spread across Spain in the late 19th century, the recipe was adapted in various regions, giving rise to different versions such as seafood paella and mixed paella. Today, the essence of paella Valenciana remains tied to its agricultural roots and the rich cultural influences that have shaped it over the centuries.

Also read: The history and regional variations of paella: A simple recipe to try at home

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