Lorraine Williamson
Fake honey in Spain is no longer a niche complaint from beekeepers. It has become a supermarket issue, a lab-testing scandal and, increasingly, a problem for anyone who thinks they’re buying a simple jar of honey.
This week, beekeepers and consumer groups staged actions outside supermarkets in multiple Spanish cities, urging shoppers to avoid “EU and non-EU blends” and buy from local producers instead. Their claim is blunt: a growing share of what is sold as honey is either heavily processed or adulterated with cheap sugar syrups.
The figure that sparked the outcry: 46% of samples flagged
The pressure on Spain’s honey sector has been building since an EU-coordinated investigation found that 46% of honey samples imported into the EU were suspected of being adulterated. The testing, led by the European Commission’s Joint Research Centre with support from anti-fraud bodies, focused on detecting added sugars designed to mimic real honey.
The point is not academic. Under EU rules, honey should not contain other ingredients. If sugar syrups are added, it no longer meets the definition consumers expect when they pick up a jar labelled “miel”.
Spain produces a lot of honey, but the shelf price tells another story
Spain is one of Europe’s major honey producers, with a vast network of hives and small-to-medium beekeeping businesses across regions such as Andalucia, Extremadura, Castilla y León and the Valencia region. The country also sells more honey abroad than it used to, with the Agriculture Ministry highlighting recent growth in production and exports.
And yet Spanish beekeepers say the market is being warped by ultra-cheap imports.
Cadena SER reported that Spanish honey is currently paid at around €3.37 per kilo, while production costs sit closer to €5.50 per kilo. Imported honey, by contrast, can enter at around €1.80 per kilo — and the syrups used for adulteration can be cheaper still.
That gap makes it hard to compete without selling at a loss. Many producers now rely on direct sales rather than supplying the industry.
The label problem: “blend of EU and non-EU honeys”
One of the sector’s biggest frustrations is what shoppers see on the jar.
Supermarket labels commonly read something like “blend of EU and non-EU honeys”, which can hide a complex mix of origins. Beekeepers argue it tells consumers almost nothing meaningful about where the honey came from or how it was processed.
That is why groups are pushing for tighter labelling: clearer country-of-origin information and stronger traceability rules, so shoppers can distinguish local honey from global blends.
How to buy “real honey” without falling for myths
There is no perfect at-home test, and many viral tricks are unreliable. But there are a few sensible signals that help.
First, take the label seriously. If you want Spanish honey, look for jars that clearly state Spain as the origin, rather than vague blend wording.
Second, don’t fear crystallisation. Many real honeys naturally crystallise over time, turning thicker or slightly grainy. That is normal, not spoilage. Ultra-filtered products often stay uniformly liquid for longer.
Third, consider buying direct. The campaign slogan used at the supermarket actions was clear: find a nearby beekeeper and avoid blends.
Why it matters beyond breakfast
Beekeepers keep making the same point: honey is only one part of the story. Pollination supports crops, wild plants and rural ecosystems. When prices collapse, the damage spreads further than the beekeeping sector.
In Andalucia alone, thousands of families rely on beekeeping for income, and producers warn that continued pressure from low-priced imports and unclear labelling could accelerate closures.
A market at a turning point
Spain’s honey has never been more marketable, with strong regional varieties and rising international demand. But the sector says it cannot survive long-term if “honey” can be undercut by products suspected of being diluted or disguised.
The next battleground is regulation: tougher checks at borders, modernised testing, and labels that tell shoppers what they are actually buying — not just what they want to believe is in the jar.