Lorraine Williamson
When summer’s glare fades and the first cool evenings arrive, Spain changes pace — and flavour. Autumn is when kitchens come alive again, with earthy aromas drifting from rural taverns, city markets filling with chestnuts and pumpkins, and restaurants swapping chilled gazpacho for slow-cooked comfort.
Across the country, this is the season for wild mushrooms, rich stews, roasted meats, and new wine. It’s a time when local ingredients and centuries-old recipes define what’s on the plate.
Forest to table: The magic of setas
Few things capture autumn in Spain like wild mushrooms. Known as setas, they appear after the first rains. They are transforming forests in Castilla y León, La Rioja, and Catalonia into foragers’ treasure troves.
In Soria, restaurants celebrate the annual Jornadas Micológicas, where menus revolve around boletus, níscalos, and chanterelles. Order a simple revuelto de setas — scrambled eggs with mushrooms — or creamy risotto made with local truffles. In Catalonia’s Pyrenees, head to Berga or Ripoll for mountain dishes pairing rovellons with grilled lamb or soft cheese.
Even Madrid joins the celebration: the Mercado de la Paz in the Salamanca district dedicates whole stalls to fresh mushrooms in October and November.
Northern comfort: Stews that tell stories
As temperatures drop, Spain’s northern regions return to the slow-simmered stews that once sustained rural life. In Asturias, fabada asturiana reigns supreme — a rich mix of creamy faba beans, chorizo, morcilla, and pancetta that defines home cooking.
Nearby Cantabria offers cocido montañés, made with white beans and cabbage, while León’s version uses chickpeas. Each province has its own stew and its own rhythm. They all share one thing — they taste best eaten slowly. Preferably beside a wood fire with a glass of cider or Rioja tinto.
In Madrid, locals queue for cocido madrileño at century-old taverns like Malacatín, where the three-course ritual (soup, chickpeas, and meats) warms even the chilliest day.
Southern soul: Oxtail, chestnuts, and wine
Head south and autumn flavours take a deeper, darker turn. Córdoba’s famous rabo de toro — slow-braised oxtail in red wine — is the ultimate Andalucian comfort dish, best enjoyed at traditional tabernas around the old Jewish Quarter.
Further west, in Huelva and the Sierra de Aracena, the chestnut harvest defines local menus. Here, sopa de castañas (chestnut soup) appears alongside Iberian pork dishes, while magosto festivals celebrate the humble nut with open fires, live music, and plenty of young wine.
In Granada’s Alpujarra villages, autumn means migas alpujarreñas: rustic breadcrumbs fried with garlic, peppers, chorizo, and grapes — proof that frugality can be delicious.
Sweet Spain: Desserts of the season
Spain’s autumn table always ends on a sweet note. As All Saints’ Day approaches, bakeries fill with buñuelos de viento (airy fritters dusted with sugar) and huesos de santo, marzipan sweets shaped like tiny bones. In Galicia and northern Portugal, tarta de castañas (chestnut cake) is the dessert of choice, often served with local liqueur.
In Valencia and Murcia, you’ll still find late-season oranges turned into delicate tarts and marmalades, while in the Basque Country, apple harvests bring the first bottles of new cider — the perfect pairing for cheese and honey.
Where to taste it all
For travellers chasing flavour, these are the hotspots:
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Oviedo (Asturias) – Traditional fabada at Casa Gerardo, a Michelin-starred family restaurant serving it for five generations.
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Córdoba – Try rabo de toro at Taberna Salinas, open since 1879.
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Soria (Castilla y León) – Join the Semana de la Tapa Micológica for mushroom tapas trails each October.
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Granada’s Alpujarra – Sample migas in Pampaneira after a walk through chestnut forests.
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San Sebastián (Basque Country) – Finish with cider and pantxineta, the Basque custard-filled pastry, at a sidrería.
Each bite tells part of Spain’s regional story — a reminder that even within one country, autumn tastes wildly different depending on which road you take.
The flavour of October
If summer is Spain’s season of celebration, autumn is its season of gratitude. Fields are harvested, kitchens slow down, and recipes passed from grandparents to grandchildren return to the table.
From smoky chestnuts in Andalusia to steaming stews in Asturias, autumn food in Spain isn’t just about warmth — it’s about belonging. It’s a season that invites you to sit longer, eat slower, and savour everything this country brings to the table.
Sources
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REAJ Noticias: La gastronomía española durante el otoño: Dónde y qué comer esta temporada
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El País Gastro: Las Setas del Otoño – Dónde Comerlas en España
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Turismo de España (Turespaña): Gastronomía de Otoño: Sabores Regionales