Lorraine Williamson
When the intense summer heat fades and the tourists drift home, Spain’s coastline takes on a calmer, more authentic charm. The sea stays warm, the skies remain bright, and the beaches — once crowded with sunbeds and umbrellas — become havens of peace. Autumn by the Spanish coast is not just beautiful; it’s restorative.
Living in Andalucia, I’ve come to cherish this time of year. As a family, we try to spend at least one day each week relaxing by the sea, usually with a long, lazy lunch at a beachside chiringuito. However, in summer, it’s often too hot to linger, and parking can feel like a competitive sport. But now, the air is softer, the traffic lighter, and the beaches blissfully unhurried. It’s as if the coast exhales after months of frenzy.
Andalucia’s endless light
Autumn in Andalucia is a gift. On the Costa del Sol, La Carihuela in Torremolinos still hums with life, but without the rush. Once a humble fishing village — and later a favourite haunt of Grace Kelly and Frank Sinatra — it remains one of Málaga’s most charming stretches of sand. The traditional barcas de jábega, painted fishing boats with eyes on their bows, rest on the shore as the scent of grilled sardines drifts from nearby bars.
Further east, the smaller coves near Nerja and Almuñécar shimmer under golden light. The evenings are perfect for barefoot walks or for sitting by the shore as the sun dips into the Mediterranean. Autumn brings space to breathe, to wander, and to remember why so many of us fell in love with this coastline in the first place.
The islands where summer never ends
If mainland Spain offers warmth, the islands deliver eternal summer. In Tenerife, Playa de la Arena glows with black volcanic sand framed by palm trees. Even in late October, swimmers dive into the Atlantic’s silky waters before settling in beach cafés overlooking La Gomera. Nearby, boat trips leave from Los Gigantes to spot whales and dolphins — a reminder that nature still rules here.
Across in Gran Canaria, the sheltered cove of Sardina del Norte is a favourite for divers and families alike. Calm, golden, and protected from the wind, it’s one of those places where time slows. Divers venture below to see angel sharks glide past coral gardens, while children build sandcastles above.
Over in the Balearics, Playa d’en Bossa in Ibiza shifts from summer’s party pulse to serene calm. The beach becomes a canvas of light and silence, ideal for morning yoga or sunset strolls. In Palma de Mallorca, Can Pere Antoni feels worlds away from the city despite being just a short walk from the cathedral — a rare blend of urban energy and seaside calm.
And on Menorca, Arenal d’en Castell remains one of the island’s most peaceful bays. Sheltered by cliffs and blessed with fine, pale sand, it’s a haven for those seeking quiet mornings, gentle swims, and local seafood eaten barefoot in the sand.
Mediterranean hideaways worth the journey
Beyond the big resorts, autumn reveals quieter treasures. In Alicante, Playa de Muchavista stretches endlessly, connecting to San Juan in a seamless sweep of golden sand. Locals jog along the promenade, children play freely, and cafés stay open for those lingering over morning coffee.
Further north, Blanes in Catalonia captures a different rhythm. It’s the first town of the Costa Brava, a place where art, literature, and sea air blend easily. Chilean author Roberto Bolaño once lived here, and his legacy lingers in the town’s creative atmosphere. Visitors can follow his literary route before settling at a seaside café for grilled seafood with a view.
Then there’s Cala Cortina in Cartagena, a cove embraced by cliffs and history. The beach connects to old coastal defences via a scenic walkway, blending leisure with heritage. Swimmers float in calm, clear water while the distant sight of naval ships reminds them they’re near one of Spain’s oldest ports.
Why autumn feels like Spain’s best secret
There’s something about autumn on the coast that captures Spain at its purest — unhurried, sunlit, and quietly alive. The sea retains its warmth, the air smells faintly of salt and jasmine, and locals reclaim their beaches with renewed affection.
It’s the season for paella by the sea, for reading under a palm tree, for the simple pleasure of watching waves roll in without the chatter of crowds. Whether it’s the volcanic beauty of Tenerife, the golden calm of Andalucia, or the literary quiet of Blanes, Spain’s beaches in autumn offer a different kind of paradise.
Because when the umbrellas close and the last tourists leave, the real magic of the Spanish coast begins.
@LorraineWilliamson