Lorraine Williamson
Setting off just after sunrise with a flask of coffee and the windows down, we left the city sprawl of Madrid behind and hit the road for a one-day adventure in Segovia.
It’s only about an hour and 15 minutes by car — straight up the A-6 and through the Sierra de Guadarrama mountains — but it feels like stepping back in time several centuries.
Segovia is one of those rare places where history clings to every corner. Roman stonework, medieval castles, narrow lanes and hearty Castilian cuisine all converge in one compact, walkable city. And when you’re escaping the heat and intensity of Madrid for a day, there’s nothing quite like it. It´s reaching 40 degrees there at the moment!
Parking up by the past
We parked just outside the historic centre, a short walk from the famed Roman aqueduct. It’s impossible to miss — 28 metres high, nearly 2,000 years old, and built entirely without mortar. Standing beneath it, we felt dwarfed by its scale and precision. The engineering, still intact after millennia, is nothing short of astonishing.
Even more surreal is that it cuts right through the heart of the modern city, connecting the ancient with the everyday. Locals stroll beneath its arches as if it’s the most normal thing in the world. For us, it set the tone for what would be a day of quiet awe and sensory indulgence.
Storybook views and stone towers
From the aqueduct, we followed the winding lanes uphill towards the Alcázar — the fairytale castle said to have inspired Walt Disney’s vision of Cinderella’s palace. But unlike the pristine perfection of theme park castles, the Alcázar feels wild and historic. It perches on a rocky outcrop like a ship about to set sail off the edge of the world.
Inside, the royal rooms are a riot of colour, weapons, and stained glass. Climbing the tower offers panoramic views over the golden plains of Castile and the tiled rooftops below. But it’s the exterior — with its blue turrets and sharp spires — that left the strongest impression.
Cathedral calm and café culture
Heading back through town, we made time for the cathedral — one of Spain’s last Gothic buildings. Its sheer scale catches you off guard. Inside, the high ceilings and stained glass give a welcome coolness and calm, a contrast to the heat building outside.
By mid-afternoon, we joined the slow stream of locals and tourists settling into sun-drenched terraces for a cold drink and something sweet. Churros with chocolate? Tempting. But we were holding out for something more substantial.
A feast fit for kings (and queens)
Segovia is famed across Spain for one thing above all else: cochinillo asado — roast suckling pig. And there’s no shortage of taverns and family-run restaurants ready to serve up this crispy-skinned delicacy. We chose a spot tucked just behind Plaza Mayor, where the tiled floor was worn with age and the menu probably unchanged for generations.
The waiter appeared with a whole roast piglet, golden and glistening, and ceremoniously sliced it with the edge of a plate — proof of its tenderness. The meat fell apart, the skin crackled, and the accompanying local wine was deep and earthy. Rich, yes. But somehow perfect after a day exploring ancient streets. Don´t worry – it wasn´t me behind the wheel for the journey home!
Strolling into the sunset
Before leaving, we wandered one last time through the Jewish Quarter, stopping for an artisanal ice cream as the heat softened into early evening gold. With no need to rush, we made our way back to the car and took the scenic route home.
The mountains glowed pink behind us as we drove south, windows open, the air cooler now. Segovia had surprised me — more magical, more moving than we had imagined for a day trip. It reminded us why Spain is best explored not just through the big cities, but by wandering into the past just a few miles down the road.
Planning your Segovia day trip from Madrid
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Driving Time: Around 1 hr 15 mins from Madrid (via A-6).
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Best Time to Go: We went in summer, but spring or autumn is better for cooler temperatures.
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Parking: Several public car parks near the aqueduct and Alcázar.
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Must-Sees: Roman aqueduct, Alcázar de Segovia, Segovia Cathedral, Jewish Quarter.
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Must-Eats: Cochinillo asado (roast suckling pig), local red wine, ponche Segoviano (almond sponge dessert).
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Top Tip: Arrive early to beat the tour buses and enjoy the aqueduct in peace.
One day, a thousand years
Segovia proves that some of Spain’s most memorable moments don’t require long journeys or complicated plans. Just a tank of petrol, a sense of curiosity, and a good appetite. Whether it’s your first visit or your fifth, this golden-hued city always leaves you wanting more.
Images courtesy of Irene Maria Stan