Lorraine Williamson
Expreso de La Robla sells something Spain rarely markets properly: the beauty of travelling slowly through the north. This isn’t a high-speed dash between headline cities. It is a measured journey across valleys, Romanesque villages, and former mining country, on a line that once hauled coal to feed the steel industry.
The railway itself was opened in 1894 to link the mining basins of León and Palencia with Bizkaia’s industrial belt. Today, Renfe uses that same route to offer a multi-day “hotel on rails”. The route leans into landscape, heritage and food rather than glamour for its own sake.
Why this train feels different from Spain’s other luxury routes
Spain has a small collection of high-end tourist trains, but La Robla’s appeal is its understatement. The interiors are warm rather than showy, built around shared saloon cars and compact cabins that prioritise comfort over spectacle. It’s designed for people who want to watch the scenery change, not just tick off destinations.
There’s also a detail that shapes the whole experience: the train stops overnight. That means proper sleep without the rattle of tracks at 2.00 am. Moreover, evenings feel more like a travelling retreat rather than a transport service.
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Two routes, two versions of “green Spain”
Renfe markets two main experiences.
The shorter classic is Ruta de La Robla, a three-day, two-night journey between Bilbao and León. It’s pitched as a rolling introduction to the north’s quieter interior, mixing rail time with guided visits along the route.
The longer option is Ruta del Peregrino, a six-day, five-night loop. This route starts and ends in Oviedo, and is designed around stages of the Camino landscape and Atlantic coast stops.
How the days work onboard
Think of the train as your base, not your only mode of travel. Renfe’s set-up pairs the rail journey with organised excursions, using a support coach to reach viewpoints, historic centres and monuments without forcing the train to detour. It’s closer to a curated cultural tour than a simple point-to-point ride.
Onboard, Renfe highlights three saloon cars with large windows, bar service and spaces to read or chat while the north rolls past. Cabins are small but private, with en-suite bathrooms and bunks designed for practicality rather than theatre.
What you’ll see en route
The headline contrast is the point: a railway built for industry now threads through some of Spain’s most tranquil scenery. Depending on the route and direction, the journey links industrial memory with medieval Spain, passing through landscapes that rarely make it into standard itineraries.
Bilbao and León bookend the short route with two very different city stories. Bilbao wears its industrial past alongside its modern reinvention. León closes the trip with serious heritage and a food culture that rewards anyone who lingers.
2026 prices, dates and what’s included
For 2026, the operator’s pricing guide lists the Ruta de La Robla (3 days/2 nights) at €1,300 per person in a standard cabin, and the Ruta del Peregrino (6 days/5 nights) at €1,700 per person, with an extra supplement for solo travellers. The same page publishes 2026 departure dates for Bilbao–León / León–Bilbao in June and September, and Peregrino departures in July and August.
Renfe describes the experience as all-in, covering accommodation on the train, meals, organised excursions and guided visits as part of the package. Booking is typically handled through Renfe’s tourist train channels and official partners.
A luxury trip that doubles as a history lesson
There’s a reason this route resonates right now. Across Spain, “slow travel” is quietly booming as people look for alternatives to airport queues, crowded hotspots and hurried city breaks. La Robla offers a different north: one shaped by mines, monasteries and market towns, seen at the pace the landscape deserves.
It’s also a neat reminder of how Spain repurposes its past. A coal railway that once powered factories now powers a gentler kind of economy, built on heritage, food and the pleasure of taking your time.